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| Tim climbs Criollitos, an 11a in the Sierras of Córdoba, summer 2009 |
When I first came to Argentina from Salt Lake City, in September of 1994, I knew there was climbing in Patagonia, but I didn't know much at all about the Province of Córdoba, the place where I was going to live and work. One of my roommates in Utah and my main climbing partner at the time, José Pereyra, had informed me there was established rock climbing in the Sierras of Córdoba and encouraged me to go to Argentina. Jose's encouragement was one of the main reasons I had decided to accept a two year position at the University of Córdoba instead of staying in the US.
My first taste of Argentine climbing came at an indoor wall, situated in a municipal gymnasium in the city of Córdoba and run by Club Andino Córdoba. There I met a young, ambicious 17-year-old climber named Diego Roldan. We hit if off from the start: he didn't speak much English and I didn't speak Spanish, yet somehow we managed to communicate. The following weekend we were on a bus to Los Gigantes, the oldest and most traditional climbing area in the Sierras of Córdoba. The place seemed strange and magical to me and ever since that first trip, Córdoba has become one of my favorite places to climb.
The sierras run north-south down the backbone of the province in two parellel ranges: the Sierras Chicas to east and the higher, more extensive Sierras Grandes about 50 kilometers to the west. In many areas the Sierras Grandes reach well over 7,000 feet in altitude and the high region captures sufficient moisture to form a complex system of streams, canyons and rivers. Rising up to approximately 9,150 feet, Cerro Champaqui, located smack dab in the middle of the Sierras Grandes, is the loftiest point. Sharp, crystal-studded granite abounds throughout the mountain range and climbable rock is pretty much unlimited, although the established climbing is largely concentrated in two main areas: La Ola and Los Gigantes.
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| Storm clouds brewing over Cerro Champaqui in summer, 2009. |
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| Climber's camp in La Ola, summer 2009 |
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| Mariano Maceri climbs Cazen a Willy, an 11a on La Ballena, summer 2009 |
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| Cecila climbs 5.8 on La Ola, summer 2009 |
Climbing possibilities are more limited in the Sierras Chicas. However, in the region surrounding Cerro Uritorco (the tallest of the Sierras Chicas, with an altitude of about 6400 feet), there is a nice collection of climbable rock. This area is locally referred to as Capilla del Monte, for the name of the small town that sits at the base of Uritorco. Although there is some climbing (difficult to access) on the high faces of Cerro Uritorco, the bulk of the climbing at Capilla del Monte is located close to town, along a short canyon carved by the Rio Dolores as it exits below the dam that forms Lago El Cajón. I first climbed here back in 1995, with Diego Roldan, my wife Gaby and other climbers from Córdoba. In fact, Capilla del Monte was the last place I climbed at in Córdoba before I went to Balcarce in August 1996. More recently, an active group of local climbers has blossomed and the quantity of established routes and boulders has exploded. Because of the low altitude and dry, sunny winter climate, Capilla del Monte is without a doubt one of the best winter climbing spots in all of Argentina.
Today is Wednesday and we have been in Rio Cuarto with the inlaws since Saturday night. I've been trying to stay as active as possible, mainly by going on long walks by the river. As far as I can tell there isn't even a small climbing wall to be found in Rio Cuarto but I'd sure like to hear about one if someone knows. Meanwhile I'm doing what I can to keep my arms from going all limp and noodlely (as if they weren't aleady that way) including traversing the brickwall in my inlaw's backyard.
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| This is the only climbing I could find in Rio Cuarto |
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| Not exactly your destination climbing area |
Day after tomorrow, Cecilia and I are on our way to Capilla del Monte to meet with Martín, Analía and Rafi. There should be more posting after the climbing begins.
