Tuesday, August 26, 2014

Starting a new blog

In the hotel in Ghent, Belgium, with my daughter Cecilia, after
having my right hip resurfaced by Koen De Smet, last February

About seven months ago I returned to Ghent, Belgium to have my right hip resurfaced by Koen De Smet. I recovered well from the surgery and am, once again, back to rock climbing (now with two artificial hips). In case anyone is interested, I have decided to start a new blog to continue recording my experiences, which can be found at:


Cheers to all hip patients, rock climbers or anyone else who may have stumbled on this site!

Tim Bratten

Tuesday, May 28, 2013

A brief history of bouldering on La Barrosa, Part 2

The following blog post is the second part of the brief history of bouldering on La Barossa. For the first part see the previous post

Sebastián Montes climbing El Proa (V6)

German climber Martin Schupp sends Opere Doctor (V7)
Although I'm not exactly sure of the date, I think it was 2005, when La Morsa brought Facundo Lorenzo to La Barrosa. Facundo was one of the founding fathers of modern-day bouldering in Argentina and the first true aficionado of the sport to come to our sierra. His interest in the area brought a whole new level of difficulty. Diego "Sisi", Sergio "Narigon" Centeno, Horacio Gratton and other strong boulderes came to La Barrosa with Facundo over a several year period, climbing everything in sight: old, new, easy, hard. Their efforts left us with numerous new boulder problems, including Stepping Out (V5) and El Huevo Full (V8; FA: Facundo Lorenzo and Horacio Gratton) at El Huevo, El Techo Clásico Nuevo (V5) and El Proa (V6; FA Facundo Lorenzo) at El Boulder en El Bosque, Mariano Cortó El Arbol (V5) and El V6 de La Cueva at La Cueva, Opere Doctor (V7; FA Lorenzo) at La Media Tierra and Hombre Sin Pendulo (V8, FA: Facundo) at Coloso. Above all, it was Sisi who would give La Barrosa it's first true testpieces, putting up three crown jewels of La Barrosa: Aracnofobia (V9/V10) at Aracnofobia as well as The Thing (V9) and El Búlder de Sisi (V11) at La Cueva.

Facundo Lorenzo sends The Thing (V9)
The winter of 2009 gave Argentina the epidemic of Influenza A (H1N1), and the government decided to shut down the province for the entire month of July. Lucky for us in Balcarce, the weather turned out to be ideal for bouldering: cold, sunny and dry. Rumors that the border crossing to Brasil was restricted had motivated Andrés "La Renga" Puertas and Fernando Cicconi to check out the little-known boulders situated on La Barrosa. Cicconi and the sierra's almost untapped potential of difficult bouldering, turned out to be the perfect match. More than any other person before, Cicconi would climb everything and everywhere on La Barrosa. After his initial exploration in the winter of the Influenza A, he returned frequently to Balcarce, accompanied by Rogelio Amil, Federico Allami, Lucas Chiesay and other friends, to climb the boulders in the sierra. The long list of new difficult boulders put up during this period includes Ayayay (V8 unrepeated; FA: Cicconi) en La Media Tierra, Nahuel y Camila (V7; FA Ciccone) and Por La Birra de Anoche (V8, FA Fede Allami) at Coloso, Culito Reggaeton (V9; FA: Allami and Ciccone) at El Panel, The stout handcrack: El V3 del Fer (V9, FA: Ciccone) at the boulders near Las Vias del Bosque, Gordou (V8 unrepeated, FA Ciccone) at Aracnofobia, A Partir de Ahora (V8; FA: Roge Amil) and Los Tres Mosqueteros (V8; FA: Lucas Chiesay, Roge Amil and Ciccone) in the Matrix, and last but not least, the testpieces: Reanimator (V11, FA: Ciccone) and Morocho el 37 (V12; FA Ciccone). This last problem was an unfinished project of Sisi's from several years earlier and was certainly the hardest boulder on La Barrosa upon its completion. Unfortunately for Sisi, his attempts to climb the problem were complicated by a particularly wet winter. Every time he and Facundo came to Balcare it rained.

Fernando Cicconi on one of the early repeats of Aracnofobia (V9/V10)
No history of bouldering on La Barrosa would be complete without mentioning the Platenses. On various occasions climbers who train at El Rocodromo, including David Saikin, Nahuel Spinedi and Marcelo Chiaradía have visited La Barrosa, repeating many of the hardest test pieces as well as establishing one of La Barossa's proudest boulders: the unrepeated endurance highball: Asperix + Govelix (V9; FA David Saikin) at Techo Grande. Saikin also cracked the code in La Terraza, putting up the elegant Climbing Nerd (V7). Three other recent boulders worth mentioning are the long standing and seldom-repeated face problem Hanuman (V7; FA: Ramon Trachsel, Bob Bartl and Martin Schupp) put up by three visiting Europeans as well as the highball problems Asperix + Rosquelix (V8) at Techo Grande and En el Proximo Sale (V8) at La Terazza, these last two put up by Balcarceño Mariano Maceri.


David Saikan gets the third ascent of Morocho el 37 (V12)
The current dai-sensei of boulder at La Barrosa is Nicolas Pacheco, who has recently put up about a half-a-dozen new double digit problems. including Huevo Frito (V10), a beautiful extension of El Huevo Full, Techo Electrico (V11) and Doctor Cachetes (V11) in La Cabezona, as well as the long-standing problem Pensamientos Marcianos (V11/V12) alongside Aracnofobia. Nicholas has several extremely difficult unclimbed problems waiting in the wings and we wish him the best of luck in bringing ever-greater difficulty to the world-class bouldering that we already have on La Barrosa.


Nicolas Pacheco putting up Doctor Cachetes (V11), one of his many difficult problems.

To date there are more than 400 established boulder problems on La Barrosa. The diverse variety of problems and the wide range of difficulty includes something for just about every level of climber. Although many problems are roofs, there are also execellent faces, aretes, bulges and even some cracks. There is also a massive untapped potential for the adventurous boulderer who is willing to head out into the unknown to look for something new. For the novice, outdoor bouldering may not be the best way to begin the sport of climbing, but it can be a fun, adventurous and social way to pursue the sport, if an individual has already developed some basic climbing skills. Climbing in a group with several crash pads makes the activity considerably safer. Until you are familiar with the bouldering areas on La Barrosa, it's a bit tricky to find your way around, so it helps to go with someone who already knows where things are at. The Bosque is a labyrinth, and the boulders are hidden way on steep hillsides in dense green. The more open areas, for example near the big cross on the north summit, have expansive views, looking out beyond to the surrounding sierras and countryside, but even in these areas it's nice to know where the established bouldering is. La Barrosa has a gentle, yet remarkable type of beauty, characteristic to the sierras of Balcarce. The stone is first rate. It's been waiting here since long before man walked the face of the earth, so if you're lucky enough to be out on one of those cool, sunny days when a dry breeze blows in from the southwest, take your time and you´ll have a chance to experience bouldering as good as it gets.


Swiss climber Ramon Trachsel sends El Hombre Sin Pendulo (V8)
At this point, access to the sierra is not big problem, but please treat the area and its owners with the utmost respect. Do not leave trash (including wads of toilet paper or cigarette butts), do not light fires and don't damage fences. When parking behind the sierra to access the south end of the sierra, do not block the gate that gives acces to the farmlands. Instead, park on the side of the road under the trees, leavening room so that farm machinery and trucks can pass. Similar consideration if you are accessing the Bosque from Calle 79. There is no camping allowed in the sierra proper, although camping is available at Club Teléfono's on Calle 32, just past Calle 71.

Nahuel Spinedi  working Reanimator (V11)
After so many years with just Gaby and me, there is now a small group of regular climbers in Balcarce. We are an informal conglomeration called CELB (Centro Escalada La Barrosa). Regular members include Mariano Maceri, Cristian "Segu" Segura, Luciana Cordoba, Juan "Jam Ming" Aleto, Marian Vago, Matías Jacobo Mollano Di Marco, Federico Aguilá, Guido Pienovi, Clara Toledo Rios, Diego "Tower" de la Torre. Martín "El Loco" Chiaradía, Analía Ardanaz, Rafael Chiaradía and Cecilia Jane Bratten. Mariano maintains an informative web page at www.celb.com.ar with lots of information about bouldering in the sierra and the exploits of the group.

Federico Aguilá finishing up the difficult opening moves of El Huevo Full (V8).






Sunday, May 26, 2013

A brief history of bouldering on La Barrosa, Part 1

Andrés "La Renga" Puertas starting out El V3 de La Morsa (V5)

My next two blog posts are an English version of an article I wrote for the magazine Vertical Argentina, about bouldering on La Barrosa. I decided to split the article into two blog posts because I wanted to include a lot of pictures and this makes loading the post heavy going. This also means there´s nothing to be found about the exploits of an old, fat guy climbing with a revised hip surgery, at least for now. However, in case anyone's interested, I will say that, one year and three months post-op, my revision surgery is working just fine and my climbing continues to advance. More on that latter. For now here's Part 1 of A Brief History of Bouldering in Balcarce.

Visiting German climber Bob Bartl sends El V6 de La Media Tierra (V6)
 
The Tandil system is a low range of hills in the Argentine Pampa that begins near the town of Olavaría, in the center of Buenos Aires Province, and follows the National Route 226 south-easterly for about 200 kilometers to the sea. These hills are ancient. They are believed to have been formed about 450 million years ago, long before an enormous land mass, known as Gondwana, split into the modern day continents of South America, Africa and Antarctica. Rocks found here have been dated at more than 2 billion years old, reaching back towards the origins of the earth.
    The sierras of Balcarce form the southeastern-most arch of the Tandil system. Generally speaking, this part of the Tandil system consists of steep-sided, flat-topped, table-like formations, rising up maybe 200 meters above the surrounding farmlands. The rock is typically quartz arenite and although the cliffs are not tall, the stone presents excellent possibilities for short climbing routes and bouldering.
    The town of Balcarce has a population of about 45,000 and lies in the heart of the Sierras of Balcarce. When my wife Gaby Cendoya and I came to live here in 1996, I wasn't sure how good the climbing would be. We were lucky I guess. Bordering the town on the southern corner is a sierra called La Barrosa and it wouldn't take long for me to realize that hidden away on this small sierra was the best bouldering I've ever seen.

Juan Aleto and Cristian "Segu" Segura bouldering in the Matrix.

In 1996, the sport of bouldering was, for all practical purposes, almost non-existent in Argentina. Gaby and I found almost no evidence of previous climbing on La Barrosa and, on the weekends, when we went out to the sierra, we rarely saw any other people at all. Our approach to bouldering was old fashioned. When I began climbing, in 1979, in the USA, the local area where I practiced had some pretty good, moderate bouldering. At that time there were no bolted sport routes, no climbing gyms, and many of the local leads were quite dangerous, so bouldering was a way to train for lead climbing that, for me, was funner and more adventurous than top-roping. There were no crash pads, no sticky rubber and I didn't grade difficulty. Fun, adventure, training and not getting hurt were more important than the pure pursuit of difficulty. I would typically climb circuits of boulders without much difficulty (up to about V4), trying to do as many different boulders as I could in a day. It was this eye that Gaby and I began to develop the untouched bouldering on La Barrosa. I could see the potential for harder problems, but it be a few years before stronger Argentine climbers, with a more futuristic vision, would bring modern day difficulty to the area and make it truly world class.

Federico Allami and Fernando Cicconi working Proyecto Mañana. If this unsent project could be
linked up with an already completed highball finish, it would produce one of La Barrosa's proudest boulders.

La Barrosa is shaped like an inverted Y and runs almost straight north-south. Gaby and I began to climb the most easily accessible boulders and the developed areas grew up around our initial efforts .The bouldering sectors near the cross on the northern summit can be easily accessed from the base of the sierra above the corner of Calle 55 and Calle 40. These sectors include El Huevo, Los Boulders de Siempre, Techos de Mierda, Techo Grande, Media Tierra, Coloso and El Panel. The sectors in the wooded area (known as the Bosque) on the southern half of the west flank of the sierra can be accessed from the gate at the entrance of the property of the Fangio Foundation. These sectors include Aracnofobia, La Terraza, El Boulder en el Bosque, La Cabezona and the boulders near Las Vias del Bosque. Finally, the sectors near the southern end of the west flank can be accessed from a dirt road that passes around the south end of the sierra. These sectors include La Cueva, La Zona de Hanuman, La Costa Mosquito and La Matrix.

Gaby climbing on La Costa Mosquito
All and all Gaby and I put up about 150 boulder problems in the early years of development. Some of my favorites include Pinch Overhang (V2) and Golem Arete (V3) in the Media Tierra, Techo Traverse (V3) at Techo Grande, Scrunch Girl (V4) and Not for My Body (V3) in Los Boulders de Siempre, Go Left (V3) and Hook Roof (V2) at Techos de Mierda, El Huevo (V4) and Knee Bar Crack (V2) at EL Huevo, Bat Undercling (V2) at Aracnofobia. Techo Clásico (V3/V4) at Boulder en El Bosque and Dengue Sit-start (V3) at Costa Mosquito.

Tim on the opening moves of Hook Roof  (V2) in 2005
In 2001, just about the time the Argentina was hit by a severe economic crisis, my wife Gaby became pregnant with our daughter and I was kind of desperate to find someone to climb with. There were still, basically, no climbers in Balcarce, but our neighbor's 18 year-old son, Mariano Maceri seemed pretty athletic, so I thought I'd take him out and see if I could get him hooked on the sport. His first time out top-roping I could see he had the necessary drive and determination, even if he lacked the skills. Later we would spend countless weekends together in the sierra, bouldering the old-school way: topping out the boulders without crash pads. Now that a dozen years have passed, I'm happy to say that, not only have we gotten hold of a bunch of crash pads, but more importantly Mariano has become an important figure on the local climbing scene. He has far surpassed my bouldering abilities in both strength and skill and recently sent his first V9.

Mariano Maceri climbing in La Cabezona
By the year 2003 the younger climbers from Mar del Plata had learned to boulder with a vengeance and they were ready to come to Balcarce and climb some of the vast, untapped potential of problems on La Barrosa. Mar del Platense Esteban "La Morsa" Degregori organized the initial outings. A host of strong local climbers including La Morsa, Rubén "Michi" Molina, Juancho Torres and Charly Contartese came to La Barrosa on various occasions to enjoy the sierra and put up new boulder problems. Besides opening up an array of interesting new moderate boulder problems they also brought a whole new level of difficulty to the sierra. Some of their stronger efforts include El V6 de La Media Tierra (V6; FA: La Morsa) and Golem (V4) in the Media Tierra, Asperix (V6; FA Michi) followed by Aspirix Sit- start (V7, FA Charly Contartese) at Techo Grande, Dos Huevos (V5) a longer version of El Huevo, El V3 de La Morsa (V5; flashed by La Morsa and Michi)) at La Cueva, and the Right-Hand Arete at La Costa Mosquito (originally V6, now harder because of a broken hold, FA: Juancho Torres).

Ruben "Michi" Molina flashing El Huevo (V4) in 2004

End of Part 1
  

Friday, October 19, 2012

Six months and beyond

The six month check-up: De Smet says the x-ray looks perfect
The six month check-up came and went. I sent the above x-ray to De Smet and he wrote back saying: "the x-ray looks perfect". "Perfect" sounds good.

The weather hasn't been very cooperative this spring for weekend climbing, although I've gotten out some. We've climbed in the bosque, Paredes Naranjes and another area on La Barrosa that I established called the Matrix (I hope to write up a report on the Matrix when we climb there again latter in the spring). Highlights include my first redpoints of 5.11 in more than two and a half years (an 11b and an 11c in the bosque) as well as climbing a few interesting new routes I'd never done before.

One of the new routes we tried was a nice crack squeezed between two bolted face climbs at Paredes Naranjas. I wouldn't be surprised if this was the first time the crack had ever been lead. 
The old fat guy placed gear in a crack right next to bolted faces
Here are three shots of Martin flashing the crack, using the gear I placed:

Martín flashes the crack using the gear I placed
No problem here
Go Martín
El Groso, Gaby and Matoco, down from the Himalayas to climb at Paredes Naranjas
Another highlight was Cecilia redpointing the 5.8 crack to face route en el bosque (her first serious redpoint  in Balcarce). This is the same route where I reinitiated my climbing in the fifth blog post.
Ceci redpointing the crack to face route in el bosque
Ceci looking strong before a tricky move on the face
I went bouldering a couple of more times, but I haven't really been able to get into an outdoor bouldering rythmn yet. I hope to put in some nice reports on some of the local bouldering areas once I get my mojo working, Meanwhile, by supplementing my outdoor climbing with sessions in the home gym, I have been able to maintain about three days of climbing per week. I also try to go on hikes at least two of my non climbing days. Typically these hikes range from 4 to 6 miles, but today, for example I hiked around 8 miles. The highlight in this category was hiking the length of the sierra, La Barrosa from end to end on top and then returning along the base. This is a fairly intense three hour hike which I hadn't done for several years. Now I've done it three times since the revision.






Wednesday, July 18, 2012

Back in Córdoba

Tim climbs Criollitos, an 11a in the Sierras of Córdoba, summer 2009
When I first came to Argentina from Salt Lake City, in September of 1994, I knew there was climbing in Patagonia, but I didn't know much at all about the Province of Córdoba, the place where I was going to live and work. One of my roommates in Utah and my main climbing partner at the time, José Pereyra, had informed me there was established rock climbing in the Sierras of Córdoba and encouraged me to go to Argentina. Jose's encouragement was one of the main reasons I had decided to accept a two year position at the University of Córdoba instead of staying in the US.

My first taste of Argentine climbing came at an indoor wall, situated in a municipal gymnasium in the city of Córdoba and run by Club Andino Córdoba. There I met a young, ambicious 17-year-old climber named Diego Roldan. We hit if off from the start: he didn't speak much English and I didn't speak Spanish, yet somehow we managed to communicate. The following weekend we were on a bus to Los Gigantes, the oldest and most traditional climbing area in the Sierras of Córdoba. The place seemed strange and magical to me and ever since that first trip, Córdoba has become one of my favorite places to climb.

The sierras run north-south down the backbone of the province in two parellel ranges: the Sierras Chicas to east and the higher, more extensive Sierras Grandes about 50 kilometers to the west. In many areas the Sierras Grandes reach well over 7,000 feet in altitude and the high region captures sufficient moisture to form a complex system of streams, canyons and rivers. Rising up to approximately 9,150 feet, Cerro Champaqui, located smack dab in the middle of the Sierras Grandes, is the loftiest point. Sharp, crystal-studded granite abounds throughout the mountain range and climbable rock is pretty much unlimited, although the established climbing is largely concentrated in two main areas: La Ola and Los Gigantes.
Storm clouds brewing over Cerro Champaqui in summer, 2009.
Climber's camp in La Ola, summer 2009
Mariano Maceri climbs Cazen a Willy, an 11a on La Ballena, summer  2009
Cecila climbs 5.8 on La Ola, summer 2009
Climbing possibilities are more limited in the Sierras Chicas. However, in the region surrounding Cerro Uritorco (the tallest of the Sierras Chicas, with an altitude of about 6400 feet), there is a nice collection of climbable rock. This area is locally referred to as Capilla del Monte, for the name of the small town that sits at the base of Uritorco. Although there is some climbing (difficult to access) on the high faces of Cerro Uritorco, the bulk of the climbing at Capilla del Monte is located close to town, along a short canyon carved by the Rio Dolores as it exits below the dam that forms Lago El Cajón. I first climbed here back in 1995, with Diego Roldan, my wife Gaby and other climbers from Córdoba. In fact, Capilla del Monte was the last place I climbed at in Córdoba before I went to Balcarce in August 1996. More recently, an active group of local climbers has blossomed and the quantity of established routes and boulders has exploded. Because of the low altitude and dry, sunny winter climate, Capilla del Monte is without a doubt one of the best winter climbing spots in all of Argentina.

Today is Wednesday and we have been in Rio Cuarto with the inlaws since Saturday night. I've been trying to stay as active as possible, mainly by going on long walks by the river. As far as I can tell there isn't even a small climbing wall to be found in Rio Cuarto but I'd sure like to hear about one if someone knows. Meanwhile I'm doing what I can to keep my arms from going all limp and noodlely (as if they weren't aleady that way) including traversing the brickwall in my inlaw's backyard.
This is the only climbing I could find in Rio Cuarto
Not exactly your destination climbing area
Day after tomorrow, Cecilia and I are on our way to Capilla del Monte to meet with Martín, Analía and Rafi. There should be more posting after the climbing begins.







Monday, March 26, 2012

Medical tourism in Gent, Belgium

Gent, Belgium: like Disneyland but for real

My revision surgery with Dr. Koen De Smet took place on Feburary 14th, 2012 in the Jan Palfijn Hospital. That day he did (I believe) six sugeries. People in the hospital told me he likes to save the most difficult surgeries for last. Mine was last. From what I understand, his hip resurfacings were completed in about 45 minutes. My surgery took 90 minutes, so I guess it was a bit more complicated. The next day De Smet did six more surgeries. Holy hip surgery, Batman. After follow-up visits with the patients, he disappeared for a week long vacation.

Seven of us patients were medical tourists who stayed for a rehabilitation period at the Holiday Inn Express. We got along just fine together, seeing each other improve and going out on the town. Our early progress went like this: the day after surgery, in the hospital, we got out of bed, hobbled around on two crutches and sat in a chair. On day two we left the hospital and rode in a taxi-van to the Holiday Inn Express. Our wounds were dressed with waterproof bandages, so I was able to shower in the hotel the second day after surgery. Except for daily visits by a physical therapist and a nurse, we were pretty much free to pass the tiime as we wanted to. By the third day I was walking with one crutch and began gradually increasing the distance quota. We went out on the town, ate in restaurants and drank beer. I stayed in the hotel for 10 days (the other patients left a few days earlier), rehabilitating for the 15 hour flight back to Buenos Aires

My wife Gabriela (Gaby) and I were surprised how much fun this rehabilitation period was. Here are some photos.

Some of De Smet's patients and their spouses out on the town five days after surgery

Gent is pretty at night


My sister and my wife are ready to storm the castle.

A breather in front of the Belgium flag

Downtown Gent

After hundreds of stairs, a view looking down

Tim and the swedes (with their newly resurfaced hips) looking to chow some grub

Some German friends came to visit
Statue points to England in downtown Gent
In Belgium they worship beer
As far as pain went, for about two or three hours after surgery I hurt pretty bad and kept myself busy pumping the morphine button. Later that night I pushed the button a couple more times. After that, I only used pain medication on two seperate occasions, when I didn't even really need it.  

Overall, the rehabilitation when smoothly and I got better every day, with one small glitch. Nine days after the surgery, a small hematoma appeared at the base of my surgical scar. This gave the nurse quite a scare. On day eight I had been very active, walking and so on, but I personally feel the real cause of the problem came from overdoing it with the physical therapist. On day eight we had been working on stepping forward and sideways on the operated leg and then shifting over to balance my full weight on the leg. This felt very hard to me, but I also enjoyed the challenge of getting pushed by the therapist and pushing right back. The next day I felt too weak to repeat the exercise and that afternoon the nurse found the hematoma. When De Smet diagnosed the problem after returning from vacation on Sunday he admonished me for doing too much. I didn't tell him about my antics with th physical therapist. I guess the old "don't squeal" mentality, learned in grade school, runs fairly deep in my psyche. So here's an important safety tip: if you're just nine days after revision surgery don't go balancing full weight on your recently operated leg, even if the physical therapist recommends it. At any rate, since then I haven't had any more set backs and in a few days the hematoma disappeared. Dr. De Smet told me that the usual treatment involves taking antibiotics to avoid infection but since I was already taking a massive dosis for the bone infection, there was nothing else to do. I continued with the walking, although for a few days I eased  back a bit. . 

Sunday, March 25, 2012

How I wound up in this mess

If this blog endures, I'm hoping it will be more about climbing and less about hip surgery. At this point I'm thinking it could be of interest to someone who climbs and is facing the prospect of hip surgey. Or anyone  who might be curious about the outcome of my attermpt to mix revision surgery with rock climbing. Perhaps there could be something to gain from learning about my failures and successes. Who knows, maybe I can come back strong enough to make this blog of interest to anyone who climbs, or at least enjoyable to someone who wants to read a travelogue of climbing in Argentina. However, this story starts with a pair of hip surgeries.

My problem was osteoarthritis. It was pretty much symmetric in both hips. I'd known about it for years but it wasn't exactly killing me. I mainly experienced it as a leaden discomfort, decreased flexibility, and occasional low level pain after intense activity days. But it just kept getting worse and there's no going back. I had a tendency to favor my left leg when climbing because it was more flexible. Could this be what caused it to degenerate faster? At one point, after a compressed high-step move finishing a boulder problem, I was left doubled over in extreme pain for more than a week. I needed do something about this.

One year and nine months ago I had my left hip resurfaced by a local doctor. A guy named Sixto Vilicich. I didn't know it at the time but he was a rank amateur. There's no way he should have been doing my hip surgery, yet somehow his convincing sales pitch, together with a strange set of surrounding circumstances, led me to believe he was a good choice. One of my prejudices, one that ended up costing me, was the misconception that it was somehow important to have the surgery done near home. Traveling, I thought, would be too difficult and complicated. Boy was I wrong.

Vilicich plodded through my surgery for almost four hours. An experienced surgeon can do the job in less than one. I didn't know it at the time but he had bungled the results in classic amateur style. The real calamity was that he didn't even seem to know what he'd done wrong. Ten months later I would discover on my own that the acetabular component had been put in way too steep. This problem caused the femoral component to lever against my hip bone when I walked. Maybe that was the reason I had reoccurring pain. Or maybe the pain was caused by the way the misplaced cup stuck out on the back side and grinded against tendons and muscles. Or perhaps it was a result of one of the other problems I would learn about later on. Most likely the cause was a combination of all that. Like an orchestra of complications, the consequences of my hip surgery played against any chance of recovery. Each time I thought I was improving, it was like I would get hit by a freight train.

In the end I decided to have revision surgery with Dr. Koen De Smet, in Gent, Belgium. He is without a doubt one of the world's most experienced hip resurfacing surgeons and also a specialist in revisions. This meant traveling. Since my health insurance does not cover procedures done outside of Argentina, I had to pay from my own pocket. This doesn't change my opinion that choosing De Smet was one of the best choices I made in this whole mess. I'd hoped he might be able to replace the acetabular component, leaving the femoral part intact. "Cup revision", they say. However, I agreed the final decision should be De Smet's call, based on what he found, after he'd opened me up. The day after surgery, he told me what he'd found. He seemed impressed by the amount of what he called "debris" inside my hip. I imagine it's not easy to impress someone who's done more than 6,000 hip surgeries (including several hundred revisions). The acetabular component was so loose it had come out with a tap. The bone above the cup had been poorly and unevenly worked. The placement of the femoral component had been "less than optimal". The kicker was the previous surgery had left me with a staph infection in the bones, further weakening the whole structure. I would need to submit to a massive, two month long treatment of antibiotics. Because of these complications, De Smet decided for a complete revision, utilizing a ceramic on ceramic THR. He placed a screw to fasten the new cup. This entailed the use of a smaller head size, but he said the 40 mm diameter ball should do the job. In the next post I will write  more about medical tourism in Gent and my immediate recovery, but let me just say now: had I gone to De Smet for resurfacing in the first place, I would have saved myself 6,000 euros and a second operation. So you might call this a cautionary tale.

But actually, the fact I'm even writing this blog is an expression of my optimism that I can, as the title says, "get back to it". A declaration of my belief that Koen De Smet is one of the world's best surgeons and an expression of my hope he's fixed my hip in a way that will work for me. We'll see how that goes.
The botched resurfacing








The revision surgery. Koen de Smet says it looks good